Olympus SP-550 Review – Part 3 (Image Quality)
Image Quality
RAW
When I started writing this, I originally wanted to open the Image Quality section with some RAW vs JPG comparisons. My rational for this being that a) it’s a nice feature and b) because most of my samples below are actually shot in JPG (which I intend to use for 90% of the time with this camera due to the higher shot to shot speed). The plan was to present the difference between RAW and JPG and then allow the reader to automatically factor that difference in when looking at the 100% crops of the JPG’s in the other sections. However, I got pressed for time today and wasn’t able to get conclusive results between identical scenes shot in both RAW and JPG so will have to skip this section for now. I will probably come back and redo this section (particularly if asked), but for now –assume all the shots below are JPG and therefore “worst case” (I think it’s fair to assume there will be a slight image quality benefit from RAW).
Optical Zoom
OK – so this is the obvious one to start with. It was the first thing I wanted to see and I know it’s a sought after answer. So find below a couple of series which show the SP-550 at its wide and then at its telephoto end. In the first example I use a mid range example also. The final telephoto example is provided with an additional 100% crop.
The first series was shot in the afternoon overlooking the water. There minor atmospheric pollution (e.g. mist) but I wouldn’t rule it completely out.
100% crop of Telephoot (504mm):
From the 100% crop of the telephoto shot, you can see a little lack of contrast which I would actually put down to either the atmosphere or the harsh lighting conditions as I was shooting towards the direction of the sun (see the blown highlights in top right of the first wide angle shot). The histogram reflects this also. As a result, I modified the contrast in photoshop and things become much clearer.
Now it’s easier to see the sharpness which I happen to think is excellent. Note that this is at the widest aperture of F/4.5. I do notice some chromic aberration around the tops of the trees and the base of the clock, but that is hardly surprising – remember we’re at 100% of a 18x zoom here having shot wide open into harsh lighting conditions.
OK, second example is to provide a bit more perspective on what 18x zoom actually gives you in a different shooting scenario. Here, I shot a cat from a distance of 20 or 30 feet.
100% crop of Telephoto (504mm):
Personally I think the telephoto of this example looks excellent once again. At 100% you can definitely detect some softness but adding an unsharp mask was able to bring out a lot more detail. I think this softness is partly a combination of the limits of the optics and partly an issue of the processing engine taking a moderate and sensible approach to sharpening. I believe it’s always better to have a slightly conservative sharpening algorithm in the camera by default.
Anyway, I think it’s a near miracle that we’re even able to debate these results given the vast difference in magnification between the wide and telephoto images. I mean, the cats face is barely visible in the first shot whereas we’re looking at a detailed shot of its eyeball in the 100% crop.
So I’ll let you draw your own conclusions but from an owner’s point of view, I found the lens’ optical quality to exceed my expectations and left me thoroughly impressed.
Image Stabilisation
Another question I saw a number of people asking about was the effectiveness of image stabilization. I’ve included a couple of tests below – one at a wide angle and another at a mid telephoto range.
The first was taken at an effective focal length of 42mm. Standard wisdom dictates I should be roughly at 1/42s to get a sharp image. I tried at 1/4s (10x slower). Here was the image:
A 100% crop of this image as follows:
I thought this looked plenty sharp to me. Now, it should be noted that I’m fairly adept at holding a camera steady and I was able to brace my elbows for this shot (although it was definitely a true handheld shot). Pretty impressive for this test.
The second image was at an effective focal length of 160mm. Again, the general assumption is a 1/160s (ish) shutter speed. I tried 1/25s. Here was the image:
A 100% crop of this image as follows:
Note that was shot at dusk in a busy city so we may be seeing a bit of atmospheric pollution but again, this definitely looked sharp. This shot was totally unsupported. Me just standing in a busy street pointing my camera upwards.
This test was a resounding success.
ISO and Noise
This was a test where I wasn’t expecting any surprises. Going in, I was pretty sure I was not going to see spectacular results – but that the results would be usable. I certainly wasn’t swayed by the suggestion that the inclusion of ISO 5,000 would mean that a high ISO / low noise breakthrough had been made. After all, the sensor isn’t a Fuji nextgen sensor (with its market leading low noise performance)… In the end – my only hope with this was that Olympus wouldn’t take an overly aggressive approach to noise reduction which would smear away / remove details. My preference is to always do this myself in Photoshop with a Noise Ninja-like plugin which can manage it far better than an auto setting in camera.
OK so follows is the ISo samples with 100% crops. These shots were taken at dusk, shooting through a half mile of atmosphere in a busy city. When I got back I noticed the shots were slightly underexposed which can increase the appearance of noise, particularly in the shadow area – but based on other shots I’ve taken, I do find these to be quite representative.
ISO 50 looks great. Clean, sharp, noise free.
ISO 100 is pretty clean. Well exposed areas are noise free and you can just start to see some noise in the shadows
ISO 200. is still very good. Noise is invisible at most resolutions. At 100% you can see visible noise in the shadows and just start to see it in well exposed areas.
ISO 400 starts to look like a typical compact camera shot. Plenty of noise in the shadows and noticeable in the well exposed areas. It’s not significantly visible at most resolutions tho.
ISO 800 is noisy. Not really a surprise to me although you can make your own judgment. I found noise to be visible in the web res (800×600) version. This is about as high as I would want to take ISO if I was planning on doing anything serious with the shot. As such, I thought I’d process the 100% crop to see how it cleaned up after some Noise Ninja. The result is as follows:
I think this puts us back in business again. Some details have certainly been lost but this image is definitely usable. I certainly will make a conscious effort before upping to ISO 800 but it’s nice to know its usable.
ISO 1600. Usable for web and small prints – not much else.
ISO 3200. This is where the resolution dips in order to get this. I am not sure what use I would find for this kind of image. Even after cleaning up, noise is still visible at web resolution. Having said that, details are still reasonable so if you really aggressively NR it in post processing, you can get a clean image.
ISO 5000. Again, resolution takes a hit here. This is the first time you start to see really significant detail loss as well as noise. It’s nice that Olympus includes this mode but I sincerely doubt I will ever use it.
So, coming out of these tests I found that my assumptions going in turned out to be reasonably in line with what I both expected and hoped for. I believe Olympus is taking a sensible approach to processing in this camera, allowing details to be retained and the images which did exhibit noise cleaned up quite nicely.
Based on these results and my own experience this week with the camera, I will typically try to shoot at ISO 100 and below as much as possible. I’ll feel comfortable shooting ISO 200 in most cases and will go up to ISO 400 if I need to. I don’t plan on using ISO 800 much, but if I do, I know it’ll require both post processing and certain sacrifices. I don’t expect to use ISO 1600 or ISO 3200 regularly but won’t rule it out. As for ISO 5000, like the 15fps feature, it’s nice for marketing (maybe) but I am prepared to bet I’ll never activate them again.
I think the short conclusion to this long section is that noise, is pretty much what it is on 90% of other compact cameras.
Sample Shots
I’m wrapping up the image review section and thought I’d finish with a few sample shots. Any images that have any post processing are specifically marked as such (otherwise, like all images above, they’re all straight out of camera). These are just a few snapshots from this afternoon and yesterday but I thought I’d add a bit of variety after all the 100% crops.
Example 1 – Straight out of camera
Example 2 – Straight out of camera, minor cropping applied
Example 3 – Levels / colour balance / filters applied
Example 4 – Levels / B&W filter applied
Example 5 – Minor levels / editing applied
Example 6 – Straight out of camera
Example 7 – Straight out of camera with minor unsharp mask applied
Example 8 – Straight out of camera with minor unsharp mask applied
Example 9 – Straight out of camera
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ISO 5000 would be pretty much like being able to shoot in the dark. ISO 3200 alone is pretty amazing, though I do get quite a bit of hot spots. At what point does the technology hit a ceiling though? If sensors could see in the dark like that, wouldn't you think that that technology would already be used in military applications?
Nice review. One thing I would love to see is how different is a 28mm wide angle shot vs. what is normally the standard 38mm wide on most other digital cameras? For example, the other Oly Ultra-Zooms tend to start out at 38mm and besides the huge zoom on the SP-550, I was also very interested that it is also wider that the others.
Perhaps you can do a wide angle shot and compare it to a shot with the zoom set to 38mm equiv. and show them side by side to get an idea of the gain in the wide side and also to see if there are any differences (vignetting, extra curves to straight lines, etc.).
Thanks for the review!
Patrick
Impressive results, thank you for the review.
Does it have manual focussing, and if so, how is it operated, and what do you think of it?
I should mention that I was very impressed of your review about SP-550. There aren't any other sample photos taken by this camera all over the web.Really great job!Thank you!
By the way, I have been using Oly SP-500 for nearly a year.Many of the specifications are similar with 550, but of course 550 has much more.
I decide to change my SP-500 with SP-550, therefore I would like to know how much you have paid for it in Singapore (At the site http://www.dpreview.com it is mentioned to be about $500 in the US). As I am planning to visit Singapore in this Spring that information will be valuable for me.
It would be very kind of you to recommend some addresses where I could buy SP-550 and if possible where I could sell my SP-500.
Thank you very much and with best regards,
Selçuk from Turkey.
Hello!
I´m wordering how long it takes to store RAW-Files (plus highest quality JPGs). Can you help?
Very good review. No mention on the video quality? Will you be giving a review of that too?
What size is the filter thread on the lens?
Hi – thanks all for the feedback, I've replied to a couple of you individually.
Re video mode – you can read here what I have to say on this although it's not v significant – http://scaredofthedark.typepad.com/blog/2007/02/olympus_sp550_r_4.html#comment-60362994
I've not used manual focus extensively yet although it does have it as an option. Changing the focus is easy (just up / down buttons) which gives you a magnified image to focus with, as well as a distance meter – but honestly, I don't expect this to be particularly useful compared to a DSLR. Maybe for very specific situations or for turning focus off (e.g. on macros where moving the actual camera while in a fixed focal point is sometimes the easiest method for focusing).
How is corner softness at 28mm? Your shot of the harbor look good in this respect. Also, can you comment on distortion at the 28mm end. Thanks for your efforts.
I was going to buy the Canon G7 for travel…didn't want to drag my E-1 (or their new replacement… whenever). Is this a better choice? The G7 is probably a bit smaller, but still not pocketable. Been debating with others vs. Leica DLUX-3.
hi. thnx alot for good knowledges that i learn from ur website. i want buy a new compact or d-slr camera good for my trips.
i don't like heavy cameras. and slr cameras rn't good for me. i want a good digital camera with enough zoom ability and good for night photography and good quality in movie clips.
at first i wanted choose my camera between panasonic fz50 – canon s3is -olympus 510 uz -fujifilm s6000
& now i think about two new camers panasonic fz8 and olympus 550 uz.
can u guide me which one is better for my purposes.
plz tell me about 2 or 3 best camera .
thnx again.
hi again lawrence . thnx so much for ur guaidance. seems u rn't agree with fz50 & s3is. therefore i think only to 550uz. i must wait more than 2 month for finding it in my country markets.
thnx again.
Hi jahanpour. Both the cameras you mention are good and the S3IS in particular has a huge following. However, they're not quite right for my requirements for various reasons. Ultimately you'll need to decide whether they feet your needs – it's just that the Olympus SP-550 had just the right feature set for what I was looking for in a compact / ultrazoom. Cheers
Hi there, great review thanks. One question I don't think has been addressed is the autofocus and image stabilization abilities when shooting moving objects at long zoom? I'd be keen to use it for shooting wildlife pics and so far that would be one of the main factors in deciding between this camera and the many other mini-SLRs. I was wondering if you'd had a chance to have a go at taking such pics (e.g. birds in flight etc)? Thanks.
Hai, Thanks for a wonderful review. I been waiting for quite some time since it's launch.Sold all my 35mm gear four years back.I was always hesitant of the digital format.Iam a landscape and bird photog, and was initially planning to spend about 8k, just to get back into photog. Now this camera is really a blessing in disguise.Wish you could have taken somebird shot's,perching or in flight.THANKS anyway. JAMES.
If its not an imposition I wonder if you might try to take some photos of crystals eg quartz or citrine, being translucent glass like qualities. Would you use underwater or through glass settings to take the clearest pictures without reflections?
Please contact me to discuss via email if necesary as Im looking for a good camera to use with my crystals and also to post items to ebay etc etc
thx in advance
Shayne
I was hoping for a really clean 200 ISO shot, but Olympus is not really any better than my FZ-20 Panasonic.
Have to wait for the new CCDs I suppose.
I'd love to know your take on the viewfinder.
I'm considering a Panasonic FZ8. It has a pretty bright and fairly large viewfinder and I hate being dependent on the LCD.
The lack of specs from Olympus on the viewfinder has me a little suspicious about the size and # of megapixels.
Apart from that the 550 is very tempting.
Thanks.
Mark
Would be most interested in your opinion of the so-called "stabilization" system some reviewers claim is no more than upping the ISO. Olympus literature says two systems are at work…what's your take on the real thing. And how is using the viewfinder in bright light…I have to cup my hand over my C-740US finder to see the view and anything would be an improvement.
Thanks for sharing your experiences,
Rog Patterson
Mark – I've commented on the viewfinder here:
http://scaredofthedark.typepad.com/blog/2007/02/olympus_sp550_r_4.html#comment-61648328
Rog, regarding the image stabilization, you can be sure that it's optical image stabilization at work. I have the camera set to aperture mode all the time with the ISO fixed. So for all my pictures, when image stabilization is on, the ISO does not (cannot) vary at all, yet its benefit is very apparent.
I'm able to handhold sharp images at 500mm with a shutter speed as low as 1/20s or so (even lower if I have something to brace my elbows on). This obviously is something that comes with practice as IS can only do so much but it's been one of the most useful features for me so far.
Thanks for confirming the SP550's "real" image stabilization, Lawrence. Have been going back-and-forth between it and Kodak's P712, with the latter's confirmed stability at long zoom and low light work, so your findings swing me over the edge. Thanks once again!
The extent and thoroughness of sharing your experience with this digicam has been most useful. I appreciate your hands-on approach you've taken.
Rog Patterson
thank you to this test. in germany ican buy the sp550 at 1. march, and so no test before in germany in speziality newspaper
Greating from Merlin -germany
In you review about Olympus SP-550UZ you said you got a detail manual for the camera that you can read or print out if you wanted to.
I did not get a manual on the CD, only the program Master 2.
I did get a Quick Start manual. I called Olympus here in the United States and the man said there is only the Quick Start manual.
This is the fourth Olympus digital camera I have bought and they all had a detail manual.
I guest the US does not rate.
Any chance you have used this in a concert setting? When allowed by the artist, I love shooting at concert venues. It's tricky with all the movement going on though. I now use a Canon S2. Is the 550 going to be a real improvement?
hi again lawrence
i must wait 2 month or more for seeing olympus 550 uz in my city. have u any idea about these new cameras?
canon TX1
sony H9
hello, I would like to know more about stabilisation on SP-550. I have bought one and I am disapointed with stabilisation.
Daylight pictures are very good, but in the evening with less light available (or night shots) all my pictures are "blured" (we can perfetly see the movement (shake) that happened while doing the fotos. How did you do this picture? manual and tripod??
http://www.pbase.com/image/74189032
What is the limit in time, when stabilisation is effective. Is there a test to see if stabilisation is still working?
This was a great review and just what I needed in terms of evaluating a backup to the Rebel xti w/Battery pack. So, essentially, I am looking for the same thing as the author.
Since I like to shoot buildings, I noticed quite of bit of distortion in the first cat shot. Notice that the building lines on the left and right both go up and out. This could be a perspective issue caused by the focal line being lower than eye-level. Anyway, this issue is easily cleaned up in Photoshop. Thanks for a timely and nicely done review. -gjl.
Hi. Thanks Lawrence for this review, it's brilliant but I'm really concerned about barrel distortion at 28mm. Is it actually that bad?
Rod
Hi Lawrence,
Ver interresting review. It helps a lot, thank you.
Images in you galery are wonderful – hard to belive that you are not a pro… really!!
I wonder if could spare few minutes to answer one question, that would help me but also – I suspect – many others on this bolg:
Does Olympus image stabilisation system make possible shooting pictures on much,much slower ISO -say 2-3 steps?
In another words, is it possible to shoot from hand without support on Olympus on ISO 100, in the situation when oter cameras (Fuji compacts?) would have to use ISO800? Galeries, churches etc.
If this is possible, then noise on higher ISO would become irrelevant…We would have our perfect camera…
I have heard sone mixed opinions on Canon compact IS system – apparently it helps but it is not higher ISO replacemment…Not on compact cameras. Canon IS lenses will improve up to 2 steps, but that is just a different category (SLR).
I wonder if IS system in this Olympus compact camera is better…?
I say again – really impressive pictures.
Kind regards
Ted
SP-550UZ firmware update guide
http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/qa/contents/03b/ssoftware10.cfm
plz tell wht is ur idea about sony h7 & h9 too.
Thank you for the excellent review. I have just bought the Olympus SP-550UZ and I'm very happy with it so far. However, I am have trouble using the manual focus. I do a lot of nature photography and some flora and fauna are too fine for the auto focus to work. I can get the manual focus to work for one shot but when I review the photo or move the shooting mode dial, I find I cannot get the manual focus to work – it seems to be locked on the previous focus and the only way I can get it to unlock is to turn the camera off and on again or to go into the camera menu and do a reset. I feel there must be a more efficient way – do you have any suggestions? I would be very grateful for any advice you can give me.
thank you for a excellent report ;; much better than most pros ;; i think i want to try for crisper shots ;; maybe a 38mm size lens on a canon ;; maybe i am expecting too much
Hi, about the RAW / JPEG comparison… I would like to see if it's any difference in chroma, color bleed and noise.
Do you have any?
Great job,
I have been debating the point and shoot vs. DSLR for some time. I currently have the Olympus 765C which was my entry into the digital market. For years I owned a Pentax K1000 which is a very user friendly film camera for the amateur. When digital photography came out I wanted to switch but the quality for lack of a better word sucked. Then Olympus came out with the 765 with the 10x optical and 4 megapixel and I was hooked. It gives great photos but I take a lot of wildlife pictures and anything at 150 yards or over is to much for the cameras abilities in respect to good quality. I was just thinking about the move to DSLR when I saw the Sp550 and you are the first to give actual photos of it's abilities. The extra 8x optical may be just what I need without the hassle of the size and lenses of the SLR. In your opinion if stabilized will the quality at those distances be decent without a lot of noise. Thanks again.
Eric
Thanks for the great review! Incredibly thorough and convincing! I'll probably wait a couple more months before I buy but will be moving up from a Fuji S5000 10x optical zoom and REALLY appreciate all the wonderful info! Since optical zoom is my primary concern followed by the use of AA batteries your review convinced me this is the right camera for me!! (Unless, of course, a 20x optical pops out in the next few months!! ;-))
Thanks, again!
~L'aura
Someone previously asked about the filter diameter. Would you please answer that publicly? I'm looking to replace my consistantly faulty Sony DSC H-2, which at least had a standard filter diameter.
Images from this camera are very high quality. The 18X optical zoom is very usable with only minimal distortion noticeable at the extremes. The optical image stabilization system (based on stabilizing the CCD image sensor instead of lens elements) is quite good and performed well under several different circumstances (moving car, boat, shaky hands).
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